Finance · housing

Mortgage Calculator

Payment, interest, LTV, mortgage insurance, term compare, and a full amortisation schedule.
Fixed-rate amortisation
30-year fixed
Region Multi-region. Costs layered on the payment follow the selected market — US PMI and property tax, UK stamp duty and reverting fixed rates, Canadian CMHC, Australian LMI. The amortisation maths is universal; the costs around it are not.

Set-up

loan basics

a month → —
Matched against the same total monthly figure shown in the result, holding your deposit percentage.
LTV 80%

Interest cover ratio, and the rate the rent is tested against. UK lenders use 125% for a basic-rate taxpayer, 145% for higher rate, stressed at the higher of product + 2% and 5.5%.

› Taxes, insurance & PMI
Biweekly = 26 half-payments/year (≈ one extra monthly payment).

Loan balance over time

drag along the curve
cumulative principal cumulative interest remaining balance early payments are mostly interest
Important Not financial advice. Every figure here is an illustrative estimate for general information and education. It is not financial, investment, tax, mortgage or legal advice, not a personal recommendation, and not a quote or an offer. Rules of Thumb is not authorised or regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and does not carry out regulated activities. Rates, fees and thresholds change and may be out of date. Before acting on anything here, speak to a qualified financial adviser, mortgage broker, accountant or your lender, who can take your own circumstances into account. See the Terms of Use.
The step

What happens when the fix ends

payment against the rate you revert to

The revert rate is a guess — nobody knows what they will be offered in five years. A single assumed number gives one confident-looking payment and hides how much it moves. The dashed line is what you pay during the fix; the gap up to the curve is the step.

Monthly costs
Loan detail
Market

How this market works

the model changes, not just the currency
Compare

Same house, three terms

click a card to switch
Schedule

Amortisation table

click a year to expand months
PeriodPaymentPrincipalInterestBalance
Relationships

What drives the payment

markers track your current loan
How it works

How to read a mortgage estimate

Amortisation

A schedule that pays the loan to zero by a fixed date. Each payment splits between interest and principal, and the split shifts: early payments are mostly interest, later ones mostly principal.

Principal and interest

Principal is the debt being repaid; interest is the cost of borrowing: balance × monthly rate. The high early balance is why the first payments are mostly interest.

LTV and PMI

Loan-to-value = loan ÷ price. Above about 80% lenders usually require mortgage insurance; this tool estimates it and drops it once paydown takes LTV to 80%.

Extra and biweekly

Extra principal, or 26 half-payments a year, shortens the loan and cuts total interest. Confirm with your servicer how extras and biweekly drafts are applied.

Worked example. On a $400,000 home with 20% down you finance $320,000. At 6.5% over 30 years the principal and interest payment is about $2,022 a month, and the interest alone comes to roughly $408,000, more than the loan. Adding just $200 a month to principal pays it off years early and saves a five-figure sum. At 10% down, LTV is 90% and the tool layers on estimated PMI until the balance falls to 80%.
Field notes

How amortisation actually works

Mortgage advice does not cross borders

Almost every rule of thumb is written for one market and quietly assumes it. “Always overpay” is right in the US, where it is free, and can cost you in the UK or France above a yearly allowance. “Lock in a 30-year fixed” is not an option in most of Europe, where you fix for two to five years. “Put 20% down to avoid insurance” is US PMI, which stops at 80%; Canadian and Australian premiums are added to the loan up front. Switch the market selector and watch which assumptions survive.

125%–145%

A buy-to-let is sized by the rent

Lenders test the rent against interest at a stress rate (typically the higher of your rate plus 2% and 5.5%) and want it to cover that interest by 125% for a basic-rate taxpayer or 145% for higher rate. The advertised 25% deposit is not the real requirement; the rent is.

Interest-only: cheaper monthly, dearer overall

You repay nothing, so the balance at the end is the balance at the start. The payment is lower because you are renting the money, and the total interest is higher because the balance never falls. Lenders want a credible plan for the capital: a sale, an investment, or a remortgage. Switch the toggle off to see the same loan repaid.

+5%of the price

The surcharge is a flat percentage of everything

An additional property pays the normal stamp duty bands plus 5% of the whole price, from the first pound. On a £400,000 purchase that is £20,000 on top, and unlike a deposit none of it comes back.

Yield is not return

Gross yield is rent over price and ignores every cost. Net yield takes off running costs. Neither counts the mortgage. Cash-on-cash, what is left after costs and interest over the cash you actually put in, answers whether the money was worth committing. At current rates a respectable-looking yield can land near zero.

Section 24 is not modelled

Since 2020 an individual UK landlord cannot deduct mortgage interest from rental income and receives a 20% tax credit instead, so a higher-rate taxpayer pays tax on rent that has already gone to the lender. Every figure here is before tax; expect the after-tax position to be materially worse.

Questions

What people ask

Why will the rent not support the loan I want?

Because a buy-to-let is underwritten on the rent, not on your salary. The lender divides the annual rent by the interest cover ratio (125% for a basic-rate taxpayer, 145% for higher rate) times a stress rate (usually the higher of your rate plus 2% and 5.5%). That is the largest loan the rent will service, and it is very often smaller than the loan a 25% deposit implies.

Should I take interest-only on a rental?

It is the norm, because the payment is lower and the interest is a cost against rental income. The catch is that nothing is repaid: the full balance falls due at the end and you need a plan for it. Switch the toggle off to see the same loan as a repayment mortgage — the monthly cost rises sharply and the total falls.

Is buy-to-let regulated like a residential mortgage?

Usually not. Most buy-to-let lending sits outside Financial Conduct Authority regulation, so the consumer protections attached to a regulated residential mortgage may not apply. The exception is a “consumer buy-to-let”, broadly where you did not set out to be a landlord — an inherited property, for instance.

Are the typical deposits and rates here real quotes?

No. They are representative market values for orientation, so the page starts you somewhere sensible rather than at zero, and every one is editable. They are not quotes, not sourced from any lender, and they go out of date. Use your own figures, or a broker’s, before deciding anything.

Why is so much of my early payment interest?

Interest is charged on the remaining balance, which is highest at the start. As the balance shrinks, the interest portion of each fixed payment shrinks with it and more goes to principal.

What is mortgage insurance and when does it stop?

Private mortgage insurance is typically required when you put down less than 20% (LTV above 80%). Many lenders drop it once LTV reaches 80% through paydown — this tool estimates monthly PMI at your chosen rate and stops charging it once cumulative principal brings LTV to 80% of the original price.

Does a bigger down payment really help that much?

Yes — every dollar down is a dollar you don't finance, plus all the interest it would have accrued. Crossing 20% down often removes PMI entirely, which is a step-change in monthly cost.

What's not included here?

Closing costs (beyond rough awareness), HOA special assessments, rate adjustments (ARMs), refinancing, discount points, and tax deductibility of mortgage interest. Your lender's figure is the one to trust.

Is 30 years always worse than 15?

A 15-year loan pays far less total interest, but the monthly payment is higher. The “right” term depends on cash flow and opportunity cost — use the compare cards above for your numbers.

Results are for reference only. This is not financial advice — verify any numbers you rely on with a lender, advisor, or independent calculator before acting on them.
Version history · 6 releases
  1. v0.582026-07-26Mortgage: six market models (US/UK/CA/AU/EU/NL) that change the maths — compounding, reverting fixes, capitalised insurance, stamp duty, affordability
  2. v0.602026-07-26Fix "undefined" field-note cards on compound-interest and mortgage, and add a build check so card arity cannot break again
  3. v1.152026-07-29Mortgage product types across 6 markets — buy-to-let, FHA/VA, interest-only — with rental stress testing, yield and the stamp duty surcharge
  4. v1.812026-08-09Mortgage: the payment step when a fixed rate ends was computed but whispered — now a headline figure with a sensitivity chart
  5. v4.552026-09-06Student loan thresholds two tax years stale and mixed between them; US mortgage labels on every market; and a build check so neither recurs
  6. v4.582026-09-06The mortgage header said "25-year fixed" directly above a panel explaining that the rate reverts after five

Releases in which this page changed, newest last. Derived from the archived copy of every release, not from notes written afterwards — so it reflects what actually shipped. Site-wide passes are left out; they are in the full changelog.

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